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Travel Guide with beautiful photos and exciting descriptions of the most amazing and unique places in Baltic states and Europe.

As one of the largest and the most dense city in Europe, and being so rich in history and culture, Paris is the real paradise for urban explorers and photographers - it offers numerous architecture masterpieces and countless interesting cityscapes. Several days are needed just to visit all the top-places but there are so many more undiscovered gems in Paris that you can visit the city each time as the first.

The beauty or the beast?

MAIN FACTS
POPULATION 2,140,526 (2019)
AREA 105 sq. km
TOURISTS 24 MIO (2018)
FOUNDED 3rd Century B.C.E.
ARCHITECTURE Gothic, Classicism, Renaissance, Hausmann
RATING (9,7/10)
Paris has earned rather negative, even scary image in the world media lately. The city has became one of the epicentres of dreadful news related to terrorism acts, migrant crysis, violent protests such as "the yellow vests" movement. When listening to all these news one can start to wonder whether Paris is still "the city of light", "the city of love"? Or maybe the beauty has started to turn into a monster? 

Paris is a very multicultural city. Lower qualification jobs are served almost only by immigrant workers (but that's a common sight in almost any larger Western, Northern or Southern European city). Also in the residential districts of suburbs there lives almost only immigrants. One can observe
Eiffel tower
Souvenir seller with toy Eiffel towers and the real one in  the moment of 20 000 LED lights show; two soldiers patrols the street near by
it already on the way from Charles De Gaulle airport to city centre, just if he choses not the RER express train but 350th or 351th bus which travels through Paris suburbs for more than hour and a half.

The most unpleasant experiences in Paris with locals are related to those obtrusive people who tries to cheat tourists in one way or another. They have grown in numbers in recent years very considerably. The same goes for beggars who are much more in Paris now than ten years ago. And they sleeps on the mattresses in the middle of pavements or even next to the crossing of large streets - and it seems noone even cares about it. Hard to say - is it the result of economic crysis or migrant crysis (or both) - but that's one face of Paris which has really turned more ugly.

The fears of terrorism in Paris isn't too noticeable anymore. The emergency which lasted for 2 years has been canceled and only at the Eiffel tower there were some intensified care of social safety visible - in the form of two armed men with machine guns.

Also the statistics shows that Paris image has overcame the troubles of terrorism. After the dreadful events of 2015, the city's tourist numbers shrinked in the next years, but in 2018 they returned to a record high threshold - more than 24 million tourists stayed overnight in city's hotels, hostels and other accomodation places.

Also the impact of "the yellow vests" is overstated - actually a usual tourist most likely won't even notice their presence in the city (even if the protests happens somewhere). It's true that Paris is actually so large city that such an incidents just vanishes there - one has to specially search for these protest events if he wishes so but it's unlikely to get in there by chance. So, the impression that there is a huge, overwhelming disorder in Paris, is created just by mass media, it has nothing to do with reality. It's just like a few small, black dots on the large piece of white canvas - when we see it in TV, it's everything we focus on and everything we associate with Paris (or any other place) at that moment.

Hausmann's city

The overall urban area of Paris is huge - when taking off from Charles De Gaulle airport runway at night, the sea of city's orange lights fills up the panorama almost until the horizon. Paris is an untypical city in teritorial sense - it has chosen to remain administratively divided. Only the very central, historical core of Paris is officially considered as the city administrative area. It stretches about eleven kilometres in Western-Eastern and nine kilometres in Northern-Southern direction and there lives about 2 million people. But the whole continuosly built-up area where lives another 10 million officially isn't a part of Paris - even not it's central business district La Defense which has become Europe's largest single skyscraper cluster, surpassing Frankfurt and London analogues.


View to Hausmann quarters in Central Paris from the rooftop of Printemps department store 

The backbone of Paris architecture, of course, is Hausmann apartment blocks built from the middle of 19th Century. Those seemingly endless quarters with their architectural elegance but also monotonity can be both fascinating and boring (it depends on the observer's mood). In just a few places a remains of medieval Paris can be seen and that provokes a question - how would Paris look today if Napoleon III would have ordered his city planner, baron George Eugene Hausmann to build his new boulevards in a new, empty areas, not in the place of old medieval quarters? Then Paris historical architecture heritage would be even more diverse and valuable - alongside the new Hausmann buildings there would be preserved also one of the largest European medieval cities. Today one could feel temptation to condemn Napoleon III and Hausmann for the demolition of Middle Ages part of Paris however one must remember that back in the 19th Century it seemed like a best solution - the "old" Paris has became overpopulated, dirty, dangerous and infected with diseases but the term "preservation of historical heritage" wasn't invented yet.


Paris rooftops in blue hour. Also newer architecture tries to fit in between Hausmann style buildings


Wide pavements in Paris where there is enough room for both metro entrance and outdoor cafe tables

Hausmann's modernization of Paris ensures the handy functioning of the city still today. The boulevards are so wide that there is enough space for cars, walkers, trees, outdoor cafes, metro entrances, monuments, lanterns, poster poles, vintage style kiosks and all the other cityscape elements which are so characteristic to Paris. The widest streets (it seems they're built later than in Hausmann's era though) has even a separate traffic lanes for deliveries, parking and other practical functions, sometimes also pedestrians walks on these lanes. It has to be added that pedestrians in Paris doesn't respect traffic rules much - if there is no car near by, many of them easily cross the street when the red light is on. Sometimes it creates dangerous situations. The patience of Paris car drivers is remarkable - they usually even doesn't signalize in these cases.


View to the axis of three arches from Louvre museum

In terms of bicycle roads, Paris isn't exactly Amsterdam or Copenhagen, but they can be seen quite often. The same can't be said about the cyclists themselves (at least not in the winter season). Probably the "blame" for that can be put to metro system which is a very well developed and handy way to commute in Paris. The trains runs so often (every 3-5 minutes) that the waiting time is almost non-existent - when you're on the platform, the train is already there or approaching very soon, so even in ten million city the metro wagons are rarely overcrowded.

Paris from above

The only option to visually comprehend the scale of Paris is to visit it's observation points and see the city from above. Paris is rather flat city but there are several sightseeing platforms in the buildings all around the city. The most famous one, of course, is the Eiffel Tower. However it's very overcrowded and in cold and windy weather it could be hard to stay up there. Better alternative to Eiffel tower is the 210 metres high Monparnasse tower, located just about kilometer away. There are much less people, ticket price is a bit less expensive, it's convenient in any weather because there are glass walls around the top platform (but with a specially designed "windows" for taking unobstructed photos) and a few floors lower also a restaurant floor where to warm up and enjoy some meal. Finally, from Monparnasse tower one can enjoy Paris panorama with the Eiffel tower included in it, while from the Eiffel tower itself that, of course, isn't possible...


View from Monparnasse tower observation platform towards Eiffel tower

Two cost-free options to see the Paris centre rooftops skyline is from the roofs of famous department stores Galeries Lafayette and Printemps. In Galeries Lafayette the interior is also worth to see - posh, golden atrium (with an interesting admission free attraction on the 4th floor - a glass walkway high above the shopping hall of the first floor). Both roofs offers views to southern side of Paris - too bad the access to views to northern side is closed, so also the hill of Montmartre is left outside the views. Of course, the Montmartre hill itself is another option to see Paris from above (as well as the observation platform of the cathedral of Sacre Coeur).


Galeries Lafayette posh atrium looks like a shopping temple 

Probably many people even doesn't realize that also the Triumph Arc offers the possibility to see Paris from it's 50 metres height. The view there is great - over Champs De Elysees and all other 11 wide boulevards which access the arc. One can just wonder how the Indian-style traffic in the ring at the bottom of the arc doesn't end up with an accident in every five minutes. The Eiffel tower is greatly visible and also the mighty skyline of La Defense - Paris central business district - isn't far from there.



Views from Triumph Arc - Champs De Elysees in the upper photo, view to Eiffel tower side in the second

It would be of no use to describe the most famous landmarks and places of Paris here - who doesn't know the Eiffel tower, Notre Dame Cathedral, Triumph Arc, Louvre, Sacre Coeur, etc.?  But perhaps not all people knows about some less popular - but no less interesting sights.

One of such places is "La Promenade Plantee" - unusual model of urban landscape design and great example of how abandoned and degraded transport infrastructure areas can be turned into splendid green zones. Back in the middle of 90ies, four and a half kilometres long promenade was installed in the place of old railway line (it was built in 1859 but stayed unused since 1969). Here pedestrian and bicycle paths have been made, various flowers, bushes and trees planted. Part of the promenade have been lifted above street level which means interesting view perspectives to the city. Even at the end of January this was a beautiful place to walk, it surely must be even more beautiful in spring, summer and autumn. By the way, "La Promenade Plantee" have inspired city planners also elsewhere in the world - in 2009, a similar achievement was completed in New York by reconstructing historical "High Line" railway.

La Promenade Plantee

Did you knew that there is a precise, just a smaller copy of New York's Liberty statue in Paris? Well, actually there are even several of them but the most significant one is located at the Pont De Grenelle bridge. It was set up in 1889 - just three years after the original statue in New York was opened, which, as known, was a gift to USA from France. So, American community in Paris "revenged" by presenting the Parisians 4 times smaller (12 metres high) copy. The statue is located on once artificially made Ile aux Cygnes (The island of Swan), and it can be seen in the composition together with the Eiffel tower.


Statue of Liberty in Paris, at Pont De Grenelle bridge

Lovers of architecture will appreciate the unordinary Cinémathèque Française building, designed by Frank O Gehry. It's located in Bercy district and is another tie between Paris and USA. Initially this building (it was built in the middle of 90ies) was used by American Centre of Paris which main task was to promote the American culture in France. Soon the centre faced financial troubles and it became difficult to maintain the building, thus it was forced to sell it to the government of France. Ministry of Culture established a cinema museum here (with one of largest collections of movies and cinema related items in the world), it also works as a cinema.


Cinémathèque Française building, an impressive postmodernism architecture by Frank O. Gehry

Paris is blessed with a bit of Art Nouveau touch too. In the whole city, there are quite many examples of this magnificent architecture style but it's really hard to just bump into it accidentally - no, the visiting of Art Nouveau in Paris has to be planned beforehand. Some of the most impressive Art Nouveau buildings in Paris is to be found not far from Eiffel tower - in the 7th district. The Master of this genre in Paris was Jules Lavirotte who designed imaginative and weird buildings with expressive human, animal and plant motifs. But the very first Art Nouveau apartment building in Paris was Castel Beranger, the architect is another "Father of Art Nouveau in France" - Hector Guimard. Also Gare De Lyon train station with it's clock tower belongs to Art Nouveau style. 

The first Art Nouveau apartment building in Paris - Castel Beranger

Pont De Bir-Hakeim bridge has became one of the most popular places in Paris to take wedding photo sessions. This unusual and scenic bridge of Industrial revolution times which consists of two levels (the upper deck is for metro trains, the lower one - for cars and pedestrians) became especially famous after appearing in science fiction movie "Inception" with Leonardo Di Caprio in the main role. In just 5 minutes, by crossing the bridge, three wedding pairs were photographed there. Also the entrance to Pont De Bir-Hakeim in Passy district side is visually interesting - there are mighty historical apartment houses with round corner towers on both sides of the bridge.


Pont De Bir-Hakeim, one of most scenic Paris bridges

A little bit out of the official Paris borders, in the Vincennes town (well, basically just another city district) an impressive medieval castle with imposing tower can be found - it's Chateau de Vincennes. This fortress was built in 14th Century for the French galm. Only a part of the original complex has been preserved but it still looks harmonious and completed. Vincennes castle is another proof of the oversaturated and very selectively advertised historical heritage of Paris - while the famous landmarks are being visited by millions of tourists, just a few travelers can be seen here.


Vincennes castle

Paris neighborhoods are very diverse and each with it's own charm but if Photoplaces had to choose the one most wonderful area in Paris then it would be Montmartre. It's just the most distinctive - the neighborhood occupies the hill, the architecture here is different (mostly smaller, older houses) and it feels rather like a small town/village than huge metropolis. The atmosphere in Montmartre is cosy, artistic and - at times when the tourist hordes are absent like in a rainy winter evening - also calmful. Completely different energy dominates just a bit downhill in neighbouring Pigalle - Paris historical red lights district, where one can observe and feel a bit sinful party atmosphere. Paris central quarters, from Louvre area to Champs Elysees are filled with glamour and elegance, other parts of the city (like the area around Gare De Lyon, Monparnasse tower, etc.) emits stone-cold and a bit depressive authority with massive and huge (either horizontally or vertically) modernism era buildings. Huge buildings are packed even more densely in La Defense quarter but there atmosphere is different - more light, progressive and optimistic, of course, also businesslike, hasty and dynamic.


Cosy small town feeling and observation point perspectives in Montmartre neighborhood


Pigalle area and the legendary Moulin Rouge


Perfection of symmetry, elegance and monotony in central districts


A rare observer looking at the dynamic life pace in La Defense business district


Paris has it's own share of 60ies city planning mistakes. This is area next to Gare de Lyon

Of course, there is much more to visit and explore in Paris than this overview was able to touch. Paris is almost inexhaustible urban treasury which can be digged, digged, digged. More places worth to visit you can see in the interactive map below the article. Both the described list and the map will be supplemented after the next time when PhotoPlaces.eu visits Paris.



INTERACTIVE MAP OF PARIS PHOTO PLACES


Travel Guide with beautiful photos and exciting descriptions of the most amazing and unique places in Baltic states and Europe.
Central street of Madrid in evening lights

Commonly it's London and Paris which are named as the most important European cities, sometimes Berlin or Rome evoked as the closest followers. However in the context of traveling and visual splendor, Madrid would have something to say here. Of all European largest cities, exactly the capital of Spain can boast with the most impressive street architecture, most lively nightlife and most sunny weather.    
MAIN FACTS
POPULATION 3,182,981 (2017)
AREA 604 sq. km
TOURISTS 6,69 mio (2017)
FOUNDED 9th Century
ARCHITECTURE Art Deco, Modernism,
Spanish Baroque
RATING (9,8/10)

Hundreds of kilometers long "frontline" seen up to the horizon - a thick layer of clouds on one side, a reddish swaths of soil with a few dark green clusters of trees on the other. This most likely isn't unique but rather usual sight when flying into Spain's airspace from north. It seems, the France-Spain border not only separates these two countries but also it's the turning point where the Empire of Sun starts - the temptation of beautiful Southern Europe weather which pulls in tourists like a magnet.

When approaching closer to Madrid, passengers actively take photos through the airplane windows with their digital cameras - although formally it's not allowed (the seat-belt indicator is on). Even the most law-abiding citizens aren't able to resist the temptation to take shots of impressive mountain contours which are seen below. It's known that the king of Spain Philip II chose Madrid as the capital because it's located at the centre of the country, thus logistically convenient. But it's possible that this decision was strategic also from military point of view because the mountains surrounding Madrid could have been a hard obstacle for medieval armies.

Mountains in Spain from airplane window

The Barajas airport which serves more than 50 million passengers per year and is 4th largest in Europe, is located unusually close to city centre - just 13 kilometres from Madrid's Old Town. Barajas consists of 4 terminals - the first three are joined together and spatially resembles long, narrow snakes (many horizontal escalators helps to navigate through them faster) but the fourth terminal which is one of largest and most modern airport terminals in the world, is located about 10 kilometres away. The traffic between the terminals is provided by buses which are free of charge. It's worth to take a bus and visit the new terminal - it will be an interesting adventure for architecture lovers. 

Thanks to the proximity to city centre, Barajas airport has even metro connection - to get to Madrid centre is possible with a metro ticket for several rides which will be usable also in the next times. 

interior of the newest terminal of Madrid Barajas airportThe new terminal of Madrid Barajas airport

First thing which surprises a tourist who comes out of the metro station in the Madrid's night, is the dynamism and bustle which dominates all around. The traffic on the main streets in Madrid, as it seems, never ceases and the urban life is even more active than in daytime. But it's not stressful or aggresive dynamic. Madrid's nightlife offers completely new insight about the term "hustle". It's not a hustle which is annoying, worrying or depressing. It's a hustle which is relaxing and inspiring - it's a peaceful hustle (as paradoxical as it sounds). In the night, when noone has to hurry to work or somewhere else, both locals and tourists merges into a single orchestra of life celebration - by taking romantic walks in the moonlight, enjoying cocktails in some of countless street cafes or looking at the illuminated wonders of arhitecture. The essence of Madrid lies in it's night, and exactly the feeling of Madrid's night will be the most thrilling emotional impression which tourist will take away from there.  

Madrid street at night
The city dynamic is overwhelming even in the middle of the night. When coming out of metro station on Gran Via, the city pulse immediately fascinates a traveler who's first time here. The traffic streams like a wild river and the effect is strengthened also by the wind which blows through the urban canyon of Gran Via  

Plaza Del Callao square in Madrid at night
Plaza Del Callao (sometimes named as "Madrid's mini Times Square") with some of the city's most iconic art deco and functionalism buildings - Edificio Carrión building which was built in 30ies (the one with Schweppes advertisement) and a few years older Palacio de la Prensa (to the left)
 
Hotel Atlantico building illuminated at night
If Madrid's night is black like a coffee then it's day is filled with the sunlight and it's because of the same reason - almost always crystal clear sky. Madrid's life is dictated by it's weather - in daytime when air temperature regularly exceeds 30 degrees Celsium, there are almost only tourists on the streets. Locals works in air-conditioned offices or sleep siesta, and they start to fill streets and squares in the evening. Madrid's heat is different from, for example, the heat in places which are located closer to sea. The air humidity is much lower and you feel rather like being baked in a frying-pan not steamed in a pot.  

Due to air dryness it becomes more important where you are - in the direct sunlight or in the shadow. In Madrid, the shadow provides much more effective escape from scorching sun. Madrid's planners have thought about it and the city has many avenues with extensive lines of trees. The city has quite much greenery which are being sprinkled carefully and always looks very fresh and well kept.

The most beautiful place where to feel the presence of greenery and nature is Retiro park, labeled as the "lungs of Madrid". It's city's equivalent to London's Hyde park or Berlin's Tiergarten. Retiro park offers royal garden, great buildings (Crystal palace, Velasquez palace) and a pond with many rowing boats.

Retiro park pond in sunny summer day
Retiro park and it's pond 

apartment highrise next to Retiro park
Upper floors of apartment highrise next to Retiro park could be one of the best real estate properties in Madrid - right next to beautiful park and there should be also excellent view over all city 

Madrid's architecture is a separate story. The central street Gran Via is one of the most architecturally impressive streets in Europe and that's not just a subjective evaluation. It's simple - the height of buildings on Gran Via (and also on few other Madrid streets') isn't typical 5-8 floors (a standard for European cities' historical centres) but considerably higher - 12 to 15 floors. Of course, these buildings aren't just high - they are of elegant shapes, decoratively rich and splendid, just - magnificent. They lies somewhere between the classical historical buildings of Europe and early skyscrapers of New York. Being large enough to impress and small enough to not depress, they offers a charm which takes your breath away. 

Junction of Gran Via and Calle de Alcala
Gran Via and Calle de Alcala - the junction of two main streets of Madrid centre 

Wide boulevards planted with trees and architecture from 20th Century beginning creates very enjoyable, various cocktail of urbanity not only in the centre of Madrid but also in other parts of the city. Madrid like a skilled bartender mixes different architecture styles in it - from art deco and eclecticism to brutalism experiments from 2nd half of 20th Century and modern buildings of last decades. For example, Salamanca district is with it's own special charm - much more calm and silent compared to centre, it's a prestige habitat environment with almost tranquil pace. The pavements of main streets here are paved with so refined, polished red-colored plates that they could be called as tiles rather than a cobblestone.

Calm and posh street in Salamanca district
One of streets in posh Salamanca district

Brutalism church in Madrid - Nuestra Señora del Rosario de Filipinas
One of most interesting examples of brutalist architecture in Madrid is this - one of most unusual churches in the world, Nuestra Señora del Rosario de Filipinas which were built at the end of 60ies 

Madrid's Old Town (area around Plaza Mayor where older network of streets and buildings from 17th-19th Century are preserved) is not so exciting because architecture here is rather monotonous. However one can find very interesting spots and details here too - for example, artistic street name plates - each of them is designed like a small painting. 

Madrid Old Town central square - Plaza de Mayor in sunny day
Madrid Old Town central square - Plaza de Mayor

Street in Madrid Old Town
Typical street in Old Town - this one more charming because of a hill 


Street plates in Old Town

Modern Madrid is located just a few kilometres from centre, it's both commercial district Azca where highrises of financial institutions are built and also Quatro Torres area not far away. Quatro Torres are highest skyscrapers of Spain (each of them exceeds 200 metres height), they were built right before the global crysis in 2007-2009.


One of wonders of Madrid's modern architecture are two 15 degrees slope towers Torres Kio or "Gates of Europe" - the first sloped highrises in the world. In the background - Quatro Torres area 


Traffic arterie which crosses Azca distric and reliable oxygen guards - trees - always ready to neutralize combustion gas 

Although there are many highrises in Madrid, just a few of them are publicly available places where to take a look to the city from above. Only panorama deck in the centre which was recommended in Tourism information office was Palacio De Cibeles central tower (not very high and each tourist group has very limited access time there - just some 15 minutes). However the highest public viewing platform in Madrid centre is in Circulo de Bellas Artes building. Outside the centre one can see the higher perspectives from Moncloa tower.


Palacio de Cibeles - the public panorama platform in Madrid centre, an interesting building also by itself 


View from Palacio De Cibeles to the centre and Gran Via 


View from Palacio De Cibeles to the centre and Gran Via 


View from Palacio De Cibeles to Azca financial distric in the distance

Of course, Madrid has many more great places to visit and see - from Telefonica, Edificio Metropolis and other pearls of 20th Century beginning architecture to Prado museum, Royal palace and Almudena cathedral... But to get an insight of how "the real" Madrid - those parts of the city where most of it's residents live - looks like, there is no need to go far from the same Royal palace. Almost next to it there is Deboda temple ruins, imported to Madrid from Egypt and right there also observation platform which offers wide views to Madrid's western residential neighbourhoods. These areas looks very decent (compared to their counterparts in Eastern Europe) - just a bit too much of dark color tones there.


The sleeping districts of Madrid - a real urban ant-hill 

Have to confess - Madrid is one of my favorite cities in Europe, it's in the TOP 3 together with another urban princess of Spain - Barcelona - and the northern lady Stockholm. If I ever become a millionaire, Madrid would be one of the first candidates where I would buy a residence.

Few more city scenes:


Madrid can also be seductive and obscene 



Madrid can also be seductive and obscene



This wonderful installation is visible in Chamartin metro station



Art deco and functionalism is one of definitive features of Madrid architecture 



Edificio Metropolis building - another one of Madrid symbols 


Text and photos: © Ikars Kubliņš, 2018. Contact me: ikars.kublins@photoriga.com